…………Welcome To My Sewing Room (This post contains affiliate links)
My Ruffle Sleeve Hack
Feature Friday Pattern From Love Notions~ The Ballad Blouse
The $6 Feature Friday pattern from Love Notions today, 4/3/26, is the Ballad Blouse. This is such a perfect blouse for spring and summer. Sewn in the right fabric it will keep you looking cool and comfortable right through the summer no matter how hot it gets where you live! Please consider using my affiliate link to purchase your pattern. You can read more about that below in the “Pattern Links” section.
The Ballad Blouse is THE perfect blouse for spring and summer! It’s loaded with options that can easily help you fill your closet full of beautiful yet comfortable blouses. The relaxed fit will help you stay cool, yet look cute! The real star of this pattern is the shoulder detail! You can choose between shirring or gathers. I’ve only made the gathered version at this time. Consider trying the shirred version as well~ I did shirring for the first time in a LONG time for my Tempo sundress. It’s a lot easier than you might think! Plus there is a wonderful video to help you along the way! I can’t wait to make a few sleeveless versions for summer!
………….Welcome To My Sewing Room (and Where to Buy Zippers)
Feature Friday Patterns From Love Notions~
Today’s sale is amazing!!! Three patterns, all just $6 each! The Pullovers are the Feature Friday this week. I LOVE all of my LN Constellations! This pattern has really become a go-to for me. I wear them year round! I find it a great alternative to a “hoodie” or basic sweatshirt. It’s just as comfortable, yet looks so much more “polished”. It sews up so nicely in a variety of fabrics, which truly makes it suitable for all four seasons!
My husband loves his North Star so much that he is always asking when I’m going to make him another one! There is even a kid’s version too~ the Navigator!
Be sure to use my code 10MACSEWS45 for an additional 10% off. If for some reason this code isn’t working, simply use 10MACSEWS instead.
French TerrySwim KnitLoop Terry
The Constellation is one of my most sewn Love Notions patterns! I wear it year round, and simply change up the fabrics that I sew it up in. My newest version is this navy blue “speckled” sweatshirt fleece I grabbed from Style Maker Fabrics last year. It’s so soft and warm and perfect for winter! I chose to use a gold metal zipper for this version. It’s one of my favorite zippers to use as it isn’t as heavy as some that you find (Coats & Clark version).
Where To Find Affordable Quality Zippers?
My go-to resource for zippers is SIL in the NYC Garment District. They have a great selection of zippers in hundreds of colors. They will also cut a zipper to any size that you may need. The GOOD NEWS? You can buy them online!
The zipper I used for my new navy sweatshirt fleece Constellation is the new EVERBRIGHT zipper. It is part of YKK’s new luxury line of zippers. It is highly polished and glides so smoothly. It comes in shiny brass or shiny silver. I prefer the #3 size but it is also available in #5. Both sizes are available in separating or closed end. Oh, and did I mention they are available in 107 colors? The zipper for my new Constellation was just $6,50. I feel this can zipper really elevate your Constellation to the next level. You can find these zippers HERE.
Everbright Vislon
The color chart is very accurate, as when I don’t have time to run into the city to shop in person, I have ordered online. Shipping is fast too! There is even an option to change the zipper pull for an additional charge.
If you prefer plastic zippers, my favorite zipper would be the YKK, #3 Vislon zipper.You can find these zippers HERE. These zippers come in lengths of 4″- 28″ for just $3.50 in 146 different colors. You can also have them custom cut a zipper for you. These zippers are also available in #5 and #8 sizes and in closed, separating, and 2-way separating(limited colors). Again, the color charts are super accurate and shipping is fast! There is a YKK color chart available for $38. You can find that HERE.
I highly recommend these zippers for any of your Love Notions patterns. I buy all my zippers from them for my Oakley Vests, Clef Coats as well as my Constellations. I am much happier with them than any I used to pick up at Joann Fabrics(RIP).
Get your wish lists ready for the Fall Love Notions Sale! Look for all the details in next Friday’s Weekly Stitch. Remember if you use my code you will get an additional 5% off the sale prices! (Check next week’s Weekly Stitch for the special code!) Also, go to your Love Notions account and leave a review for any pattern you have purchased for a chance to win the Love Notions “Look Book”. Check the Love Notions Facebook page for more details on that!
Feature Friday Pattern From Love Notions~
The Octave Coat is the $6 Feature Friday pattern today, 11/21/25. If you are new to sewing coats, this is a great place to start! If you purchase the Octave Coat Sewing Course for $25, you will get the Octave Coat pattern for free. Be sure to use my code 10MACSEWS for an additional 10% off. (the course or the pattern)
The Octave Coat Sewing Course is an on-demand course can be watched on YOUR time. No limits, no expirations. Binge it or watch it in chunks. Replay the tricky spots until it clicks for you. Tami walks you through each every step the way. Tami takes the mystery out of intimidating subjects like size, fabric selection, common pattern adjustments, sewing techniques, sewing the pockets, sewing the lining, and more. You’ll also get access to a module all about installing a zipper!
The Octave Coat can be dressed up or down depending on your fabric choice. From a nice classic wool to a thick flannel and even a fleece your choice can give you a completely different look! Be sure to check out the Love Notions Facebook page (type Octave in the search bar) to see all the Octaves made by LN Ambassadors and customers.
I haven’t made the Octave Coat YET! However, I do have all my fabric together for it. I have a gray melton wool blend for the coat, a plaid flannel for the lining and a thermal satin lining fabric for the sleeve lining. I’m planning on making the shawl collar version with the tie belt. I will for sure be watching the Octave Sewing Course before I even begin to cut out my fabric pieces! Stay tuned!!!
Here are the fabrics that I have purchased for my Octave Coat.
Gray Melton Wool blend from the Garment District of NYC
Gray Plaid Robert Kaufman Flannel for the body lining. (Raspberry Creek Fabrics)
Ivory flannel backed satin for the sleeve lining. (Local fabric store)
Keep Reading Below for Fabric Resources For The Octave Coat!!!
The Details
Sizes XS-5X
Choice of Wide lapel, shawl collar or hooded option
Fully lined option
Integrated pockets in princess seams
Optional belt or button closure
Designed for heavy weight woven fabrics or stable knits
Full Bust option
Drafted for winter layering (plenty of ease)
Optional Sewing Course available for purchase
Tip: Sew a muslin with the lining pieces
Skill Level: Intermediate
Fabric Recommendations
Medium to heavyweight woven fabrics such as~
Boiled wool
Boucle
Melton Wool
Bonded Suede
Heavyweight Stable Knits such as~
Fleece
Sweatshirt Fleece
Sherpa
The above fabrics would be perfect for the unlined version
Use a light weight woven fabric for the hood lining when using a bulky fabric for your coat. A slippery fabric such as satin, bemberg rayon or a silk-like fabric is best for the sleeves.
You will find several fabrics here that are perfect for the Octave Coat. They have a variety of wool and wool blend coatings that are Designer Deadstock along with a great selection of lining fabrics. You can find them all here. FYI~ you may also order swatches from Cali Fabrics!
Here are a few of my favorites:
Navy Herringbone Wool Coating #30523 at $22.99 per yard
Designer Deadstock Charcoal Heavy Wool Tweed #30521 at $19.99 per yard
Dark Ocean Blue Wool Boucle #30526 at $24.99 per yard
Moss Green Melton Wool #30528 at $22.99 per yard
Charcoal Melton Wool #30520 at $22.99 per yard
Pink Monica Boiled Wool #WL-25730 at $18.79 per yard
#30523#30521#30526#30528#30520#WL-25730
Style Maker Fabrics
This is one of my favorite shops, however I know that they are a tad more expensive than some. That being said~ the quality is ALWAYS top-notch! They also sell swatches for just $1 or $2 with free shipping. When ordering from Style Maker, they will also match thread for you. If you have trouble matching a lining fabric, you can contact them via the website and they are always glad to help!!
There are a few of the favorites that I found when looking through their “Boucle & Coating” section. You can see all of them here. Below are a few of my favorites.
Cozy Reversible Sherpa Fleece, available in 5 colors, $29.99 per yard
Large Scale Plaid Plus Boucle Fleece, $24.99 per yard
Teddy Boucle Fleece, available in 2 colors, $24.99 per yard
This just in!!!!
Style Maker Fabrics just added a few brand new coatings to their shop! They are PERFECT for the Octave Coat! If wool is too itchy for you take a look at these! They look AND feel like Wool Melton yet are made from a blend of poly, acrylic and rayon. They are 60″ wide and have 40% stretch. Don’t forget you can always order swatches from Style Maker Fabrics.
They have a great selection of Melton Double Weave Wool (sold by the 1/2 yard). Many of them are on sale. Here are a few of my favorites. Be sure to visit their website to check them all out!
Denim/Linen/Cinnamon Box Plaid Double Weave Wool, $10 per half yard
Toasted Almond/Navy/Powder Plaid Double Weave Wool, $10 per half yard
There are also several other types of Wool Coating to choose from. These are a few classic fabrics to choose from.
Rainbow Flecked Black & White Herringbone Wool Coating, $14.49 per yard
Golden Beige Herringbone Wool Coating, $14.49 per yard
Salt & Pepper Tweed Wool Coating, $15.49 per yard
Surge also has 2 Faux Wool Coating available for just $7.50 per yard which would be great to use if you’re newer to sewing or just want a budget friendly option.
Black & Tan Harlequin Plaid Faux Wool Fleece Coating~ On Sale and Almost gone!
Black & White Diagonal Plaid Faux Wool Fleece Coating
Surge’s Polartec Thermal Pro Double Sided Fleece(shown below) would make a great unlined Octave Coat. This fleece is designed to keep you warm without weighing you down. It is available in 3 colors for $17.99 per yard. You can see them all HERE.
Fleece
Fleece makes a great option for the Octave Coat. Other than the Polartec fleece I have shown above, I really can’t give you an online resource for it since the quality really varies per manufacturer. If you (like me) have a stash of the Polar Fleece from Joann Fabrics~ this is a perfect fabric for a casual Octave Coat. There are several online stores that carry fleece, but since I haven’t ordered from them I wouldn’t want to recommend them to you. I would suggest check your local Walmart(mine never has decent fabric) and Hobby Lobby for fleece.
This Just In!!! Nick of Time Textiles has a limited selection of Polar Fleece. I HAVE ordered fabrics from them in the past and I’ve been very happy. You can check back often as their stock is always changing. You can also order swatches from them as well. Here are 2 that I think would work really well for the Octave
Navy Double-Sided Polar Fleece, SKU 7008B #S/LL, $5.50 per yard
Mint Single Sided Polar Fleece, SKU 7431B #S63,$5.50 per yard
Additional Resources~
Discovery Fabrics is a Canadian company that is a favorite of many LN Amabassadors. They also have a selection of various Polartec Fleece. You can see them HERE.
Minerva Fabrics were sponsors of the release of the Octave Coat back in 2020. They have many wool coatings in a several price ranges. I did see some nice Deadstock Wool Blend Coatings on sale for just $9.99 per yard. You can see all the coating fabrics HERE. Below are a few of the sale fabrics I saw.
If you are looking for a high-end fabric, Minerva also has a great selection of high quality coating fabrics. The great thing about Minerva is that is you click on a fabric, often you will see photos of other customer makes in that exact fabric!
John Louden Wool Blend Coating, various plaids, $17.99 -$19.99 per yard
Another great choice for the Octave Coat is Teddy Faux Fur. Minerva has it available in 6 colors for $19.99 per yard. I simply LOVE these colors. See all of them HERE.
Fur For Collar
My top suggestion for fur for your collar would be Shannon Fabrics Luxe Cuddle Fabrics. However, they only sell wholesale~ so you can visit their website to see where you might be able to purchase it near you. There is nowhere near me, however I did see that there are some available on Amazon. You can see them HERE. My favorites are below.
*****Another great option is to simply purchase a throw from Home Goods or similar stores and cut it up for the collar. This may be the most cost effectivechoice.
Lining Fabrics For the Octave Coat
Flannel backed satin is a great choice to add warmth to your coat. It is perfect especially for the sleeves as it allows you to slip your arm in easily but add needed warmth. I have a local fabric store where I purchase this, however I have found some reliable online shops that carry it. This is what I have purchased for my Octave Coat.
Vogue Fabrics~ available in 6 colors, $14.99 per yard.
Pongee~ a polyester fabric that is another great lining choice. It has a smooth surface and soft drape.
Cali Fabrics has about 40+ colors of Designer Deadstock Pongee lining for $3.99 per yard. You can find them HERE.
Charmeuse Satin~ is a slightly heavier lining fabric that is great for coats. Cali Fabrics has 40+ colors available at $3.99 per yard. You can see them HERE.
Flannel~ I have chosen to line the body of my Octave with flannel for added warm. Any flannel will work although I do have a few favorites. Be sure to use a good quality flannel for your coat~ especially after you put so my effort in to sewing it up!
My favorite flannel is Robert Kaufman Mammoth Flannel which is one the thickest and best quality flannels I have ever worked with. They can be found in many online shops (and even quilt shops). Simply search in your favorite online shop. They can also be found in the following shops.
Style Maker Fabrics also carries a “Cozy Flannel” which is very similar to Mammoth Flannel. I have sewn this flannel up as well and it just gets softer and softer with each wash. They have many plaids AND prints available. You can find them HERE.
***PS~ I don’t suggest using flannel for the sleeves of your Octave Coat. It would make it very difficult to get your arms in and out.
What I Wore Last Week~
Last week was all about wearing layers it seems!
LN Aria Button-down in Sweatshirt Fleece (Raspberry Creek Fabrics)
LN La Bella Donna in rib knit
LN La Bella Donna vest hack in loose weave sweater knit
LN Sloane Sweater in waffle knit
LN Sloane Sweater, View A with hood in a ribbed sweater knit
LN Oakley Vest in a Sweater Double Knit
LN Sloane Sweater with a hacked funnel neck ~sweater knit from Style Maker Fabrics (2024)
LN Presto Tunic in flannel~ Eddie Bauer for Joann Fabrics
Hey June Handmade Halifax Hoodie in a cotton French Terry
I made this way back in 2018? It’s a size too small, but now I just want to make a new one!
“What I’m Sewing This Week” and “My Fall Sewing Plans” will return in next week’s Weekly Stitch! See you then!!
Thanks for reading “The Weekly Stitch”! I’m so happy you took the time to “visit” my sewing room!
Mary Anne 🙂
Remember to follow me over on Instagram to see all my latest makes! @sewmarymac
You can also follow my Facebook Page~ Sew Mary Mac. On this page you will find information on my makes from all pattern companies. If I know of any good sales(pattern or fabric) I will also feature this information. I have had many of my loyal followers send me friend requests on Facebook. I do post in the Love Notions group under Mary Anne MacLean, however this Facebook account is private. There is no sewing content on that Facebook Account.
The Love Notions links are affiliate links. It costs you nothing to purchase from these links, it just helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to test and review more patterns.
To receive an additional 10% off the LN pattern price, use this coupon code 10MACSEWS.This coupon code can be used at anytime on any pattern….even a $6 Feature Friday pattern. My code does change quarterly, so please always check the newest blog post for an update if you find a code isn’t working. This code will be good through the end of 2025.
Blog Post Links~ These will give you more details on each pattern, my sizing and alterations along with sewing tips for each specific pattern.
The Arlington Sweater is the $6 Feature Friday pattern today, 10/17/25. It is the perfect transitional pattern for this time of year! Be sure to use my code 10MACSEWS for an additional 10% off.
Let me tell you, the Arlington Sweater is such an awesome pattern! It is such a classic with enough options that can take it from a basic turtleneck to something extra special! The combinations are truly endless! At $6 this pattern really is a bang for your buck! (I also love using the Arlington puff sleeve on other patterns!)
Last week I went on a Girl’s Getaway with four of my retired teacher friends. We figured out between us we had taught 178 years!! I wore all me-made but didn’t get many photos of my outfits~ we were just too busy have fun! (Plus I wasn’t going to pack my tripod and I wasn’t going to keep asking my girlfriends to take pics like I ask my husband.)
LN Timbre Top in a rayon twill from my deep stash
LN Oakley Vest in a Quilted Sweater Knit (Surge Fabrics 2023) with a RTW sweater
TB Marlo Sweater in Urban Rib Double Knit over a LN Timbre Top in Art Gallery rayon challis
Picture on boardwalk along the ocean~ a really windy night! See a better photo in the Bonus pics at the very bottom.
LN Terra Tunic in the “infamous” Oatmeal French Terry from Raspberry Creek Fabrics
Picture from when I made this- it was windy and rainy day of shopping!
See Fabric Resources for more into on Oatmeal French Terry
LN Oakley Vest (Quilted Sweater knit) over a LN Rockford Raglan (Rib Knit)
See below for quilted sweater knit resources
LN Sloane Sweater with hood option in a Hacci sweater knit
For details on how I sew my Oakley vest (I do not have the zipper extend into the collar because I don’t like the way it rubs on my neck) visit this blog post.
I spent a lot of time this week putting together the Fabric Resource Guide for the Octave Coat, so I didn’t get as much sewing as I typically would get done.
My first sewing obligation this week was to sew up my Fit pattern test for Love Notions. A Fit test is the first round of testing a pattern where there are testers in all the sizes. We evaluate the fit of the pattern and recommend changes we think should be made. We share photos with the entire testing team along with Tami. Once Tami has made any changes she thinks are necessary, we will sew up another version. This pattern is going to be a super quick make and really cute. I can’t wait to show you!
Edited to add: Tami has made the first set of changes to the vest pattern and I’m working on my next version.
My Fall Sewing Plans~
LN Aria Button downs
Corduroy ~Woodland print that I purchased last fall from Style Maker Fabrics
Sweatshirt fleece, pink plaid that I ordered from RCF
Jacket hack in Navy linen~ just received from Mood Fabrics
LN Timbre Top long sleeved button front version ~ ALL COMPLETE!!
Block print cotton voile ~has in stash from Blackbird Fabrics.
Perhaps a Rayon challis version? Found perfect rayon challis in my deep stash (10 yrs old?)
Bonus Sew~ Green Double Gauze from last big Joann Fabrics haul
LN Constellations
Navy Speckle Sweatshirt Fleece~ in stash from Style Maker Fabrics
Oatmeal and Fuchsia floral sweatshirt fleece~ in stash from Style Maker Fabrics
LN Clef Coat
Gray Sweatshirt fleece~ in stash from ????
Navy Boucle purchased a few years ago from Style Maker Fabrics
LN Oakley Vest
Quilted Sweater knit from stash~ from Style Maker Fabrics(2023 & 2024)
Purple nylon quilted fabric ~Style Maker Fabrics from last year
Fleece~ from Joann’s fabrics that I purchased just before liquidation
LN Coda Coat
Update~Home Good had no quilts that I liked. I’ve been searching Amazon now for a block printed quilt.
Thanks for reading “The Weekly Stitch”! I’m so happy you took the time to “visit” my sewing room!
Mary Anne 🙂
Remember to follow me over on Instagram to see all my latest makes! @sewmarymac
You can also follow my Facebook Page~ Sew Mary Mac. On this page you will find information on my makes from all pattern companies. If I know of any good sales(pattern or fabric) I will also feature this information. I have had many of my loyal followers send me friend requests on Facebook. I do post in the Love Notions group under Mary Anne MacLean, however this Facebook account is private. There is no sewing content on that Facebook Account.
The Love Notions links are affiliate links. It costs you nothing to purchase from these links, it just helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to test and review more patterns.
To receive an additional 10% off the LN pattern price, use this coupon code 10MACSEWS. This coupon code can be used at anytime on any pattern….even a $6 Feature Friday pattern. My code does change quarterly, so please always check the newest blog post for an update if you find a code isn’t working. This code will be good through the end of 2025.
Additional Fabric Resources
Style Maker Fabrics Fall Fabric Haul
There are my Fall Fabrics I just got from Style Maker Fabrics. I loved watching the video Michelle had on YouTube to follow along and “see” all the new Fall fabrics. I love how I am able to see how each of the fabrics drape. This will be done again in March for the new Spring/Summer Fabrics. Here is what I chose along with my “plans” for each.
Plush Cable Quilted Double Knit in Berry~ Either a LN Constellation or a LN Clef Coat
Autumn Leaves French Terry(European fabric)~ Either a LN Constellation or a TB Marlo Sweater
Jacquard Shirting in Indigo~ LN Aria or LN Band Camp button down
Jacquard Shirting in Natural~ NEW LN vest pattern I’m testing. This is for my final version!
The second photos of the Jacquard Shirting shows how it looks after being prewashed. It is almost like a double gauze, but a bit more substantial.
Raspberry Creek Fabrics Oatmeal French Terry
This highly coveted Oatmeal French Terry is milled just once a year especially for Raspberry Creek Fabrics. This infamous French Terry is the softest and squishiest fabric you will ever wear!!! It is my absolute favorite fabric to make the hooded LN Terra Tunic in.
Once it is gone~ it’s gone for another year! Typically there will be a preorder for this fabric so that they can gauge how much fabric to have milled. We haven’t heard anything yet for this year, but I will keep you updated as I get the details. If you’d like to see more “Oatmeal” makes, visit the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Facebook group and type “Oatmeal French Terry” in the search.
BREAKING NEWS!!!!
Diana (from Raspberry Creek Fabrics) just announced on Wednesday that a preorder is now open for Oatmeal French Terry!!! See what she said below:
Oatmeal French Terry PRE-ORDER!
You asked and we answered. Oatmeal french terry is now on pre-order in the shop!
What is so special about oatmeal french terry? It is the coziest, softest, most squishy french terry out there. There is something about the heathered yarn that gives the french terry a bit more body and squish. You don’t want to miss it!
For now, we have the solid oatmeal french terry.
If you recall, when the shop ownership transitioned we mentioned that RCF now has the ability to print using white ink. We are working on test printing, figuring out which print method gets the best results on the oatmeal.
So, snag your solid for now and we’ll see what the future holds. If you have a print you’d like to see on oatmeal french terry, comment below and we’ll see what we can make happen.
This pre-order is actually a pretty quick turn around, hoping to start shipping towards the end of the month or early November. But that also means we have limited yardage this go round. So, get your order in ASAP if you want to snag yardage from this round.
I have a few trusted online fabric shops that have some quilted knits available. I LOVE my Oakley vests in a quilted knit!
Surge Fabrics. Both of my quilted knits came from Surge Fabrics. They still have both designs available~ the Interwoven Square and the Cable Knit. My Burgundy Interwoven is not available, however they have 8 other colors. My Ivory Cable Knit is still available along with black and gray. You can find them all HERE.
I made a LN Lincoln Top with this one
Raspberry Creek Fabrics has a Diamond Quilted Knit($13.50 per yard) and a Striped Quilted Knit($14.94 per yard), both available in three colors. You can find them HERE.
Style Makers Fabrics has 4 options to choose from in a variety of colors. You can find them HERE.
Plush Cable Quilted Double Knit~ this has a bit more structure than the ones listed above. I just received this in the Berry. There are 7 colors available at $22.99 per yard. Pictured above in my Fabric Haul.
Deco Geometric Double Knit~ Available in 3 Fall Neutrals for $19.99 per yard
Cable Stripe Knit~ available in 3 colors for $24.99 per yard
Diamond Double Knit~ available in Raspberry for $22.99 per yard ( I purchased some of this in Sage and Plum previously and have plans for 2 new Oakley vests.)
Bonus Photos~ Girl’s Trip to Rehoboth Beach, DE
I had the best time with 4 of my retired teacher friends! We ate some great meals, we shopped and shopped and shopped. We even had a Show-n-Tell evening showing each other all our purchases. October was a perfect month to shop~ since a $10 donation to Breast Cancer Research provided us with a coupon for 25% off one item in a lot of the stores! Rehoboth Beach is known for its beach of course along with the boardwalk~ but the tax free shopping is also a big draw! There are actually 3 outlet centers all within a mile or two of each other!
We were able to get over to the boardwalk to see the Harvest Moon over the Atlantic Ocean one evening.
These were all my purchases~ I did buy some things for my husband too!
When I tested this pattern back in 2023, I gave it the “Sew Mary Mac” stamp of approval! I stick by that still!. The Lenox Top and Dress pattern is the $6 Feature Friday pattern today, 9/12/25. You use my code 10MARYMAC for an additional 10% off.
You may notice that the neckline on my bright pink Lenox if a tad higher than how it looks on others. I have raised the neckline on this version, to make it more suitable for me. For complete details on how I did this~ visit this blog post. On this post you will also see other examples of the Lenox top that I made during testing.
For this year’s Spring Sale, I decided to focus on the Love Notions makes that I reached for over and over again all last summer. Some of the makes I’m sharing in this blog post are ones I wore on repeat last summer while some of them were just made in anticipation of this sale and the arrival of summer. I hope I give you a bit of inspiration for your “Everyday Summer Sewing”. These are the things I am planning to wear every day all summer long…………….
I was so honored to be asked to participate in Style Maker Fabrics Fall Inspiration Tour!!! Since I LOVE Style Maker Fabrics AND Love Notions patterns, I thought it would be a perfect time to combine them to create a perfect Fall ensemble.
A Little About Style Maker Fabric
Style Maker Fabrics is one of my go-to fabric shops. I’ve been a loyal customer since 2018. If I had to pick ONE reason I love Style Maker Fabrics it would be the quality! This small family owned business goes above and beyond to make sure ALL the fabrics they sell are top quality.
To me, buying fabric and sewing are two completely separate hobbies. I LOVE fabric, always have always will. I often buy fabric just because it’s pretty and I like it~ with no intended purpose. It often winds up in my stash and eventually will get used. BUT~ my purchases from Style Maker are very different. This is the shop I go to when I’m looking for something for a specific project. Whether it’s a new Oakley Vest and Aria Shirt combination, or a “Faux Dress” and vest, I can always find exactly what I want at Style Maker. You can purchase samples for a small fee, or even ask them for actual photos of two fabrics together if you’re unsure.
Happy Me Made May! Are you participating? I’ve participated the last few years, but this year I decided to sit out. I’m still enjoying following along on Instagram with everyone else! It’s a great way to find new patterns, new fabric resources and new sewing “friends”. If you aren’t familiar with Me Made May, you can read all about it here.
I’m not participating for a few reasons. I wear Me Mades everyday, so I don’t “have to try to wear them each day”. My oldest daughter is getting married this week, so I’ve been pretty busy with that. What I decided to do for Me Made May this year, was to pull things from my closet that I don’t typically reach for. I’m wearing them and then deciding whether to keep them or pass them on. A few items I’ve worn for an hour or so, then I found they annoyed me for some reason or another~ in this case I changed and put that item into my donate pile.
Me Made May is also a great time to evaluate your wardrobe and see what gaps your wardrobe may have. So, that may mean buying some new fabrics to help fill those gaps! Who doesn’t love buying new fabrics!
These are all versions of the Rhapsody Blouse. All these of these rayons are still available.
*The Bass Clef and Treble Clef (for Kids) along with the Ladies Clef Coat pattern are all on sale today 2/13/26 for just $6 each. Please consider using my affiliate links to give me credit for the sale. Thanks! If you purchase one or more of the Clef Coats, you can get an additional 10% off when using my code 10MACSEWS.
I am so excited about the release of the new Bass Clef Coat pattern! I tested both the Woman’s Clef Coat and the Men’s Bass Clef Coat and let me tell you~ I am a BIG fan! (I’m sure the Kid’s Treble Clef is awesome too!) This coat is truly a pleasure to sew. It’s satisfying and quick~ what more could you ask for! Oh and the final result is pretty awesome too! I see many more Clefs in my future~ both for me and my husband. Don’t typically sew for the “men” in your life? This is the perfect pattern to change that.
The Details
The Bass Clef Coat is a relaxed fit, yet classic coat that can take on totally different looks depending on the options that you choose. It can be casual or dressy~ the choice is yours! And there are a lot of options!
Can be made with wovens or knits!
Stand Collar or Hood Options
Zipper or Button/Snap Placket Options
Optional Welt Chest Pocket
Front Kangaroo Pockets
Drawstring or Elastic Waistline
Endless Combinations!
Skill Level~ Confident Beginner, only the zipper and buttonholes/snaps may be a bit challenging.
Sizing and Fit
The Bass Clef is available in sizes XS-5X. Choose your size based on the chest measurement. If between sizes, choose the smaller size. As always, check the finished garment measurements chart to help you.
The Bass Clef is drafted for the average 5’8″ man. It is meant to hit at the full hip. It is designed to have a relaxed and roomy fit. If your “man” prefers a more fitted coat, you can always size down. Again, be sure to check the finished garment measurement chart to determine if you will have enough ease.
Something to remember about this pattern is that fabric choice can really make a difference in how the coat fits. A thicker fabric is going to fit closer than a lightweight fabric. Make sure you take that into account when choosing your size.
Bill’s Sizing
I made a size Large for my husband. His chest measures 43″ which falls exactly in a size L. His waist is 37″ and his hips are just 38″. His hips are smaller than a size Large, but I did not grade smaller for him. I did however use a smaller length of elastic for the hem than recommended for the size Large. This pulled the bottom in just a tad more so it fit him better. The Large recommends 45″ elastic and I used just 43″.
My husband is 5’8″~ so I did not take make any changes to the length of the body of the coat. I did shorten the sleeves 1 1/2″, which is a typical adjustment that I make for him. The wrist elastic calls for 11″ for the size Large, I used just 10″. This is just a guide and can be changed for personal preferences.
I chose to use 3/4″ wide elastic for both the wrists and hem. This is a personal preference as well.
Modifications I Made
French Seams
I chose to sew French seams on the side seams and the sleeve seam. Since I don’t sew very often for my husband, I wanted to make this extra special and give the inside a cleaner look. In order to sew French seams, I needed to increase the seam allowance to 1/2″ instead of 3/8″. To do this I simply added 1/8″ to the side seams of the front and back pattern pieces as well as the sleeve seam. Choosing to sew these seams as French seams meant that I would be sewing the side seams before inserting the sleeve. The sleeve will then be inserted “in the round” after the side seams are sewn.
How to Sew a French Seam
Pin front and back together at the side seams Wrong Sides Together.
Stitch a 1/4″ seam
Trim seam to 1/8″
Press seam allowance to one side
Turn coat wrong side out, press seam really well.
Pin the side seams Right Sides Together.
Stitch a 1/4″ seam
Press seams well again.
Repeat this process for each sleeve.
First step~ pins wrong sides togetherFinished French SeamFinished inside of Bass Clef
Interfacing
The Bass Clef Coat does not require interfacing in the collar. I have worked with this Washed Corduroy before and I know that it is very soft and has a bit of a drape to it. I knew that I would want it to have a bit more structure. I used a lightweight knit tricot interfacing on the collar and it worked out very well. When zipped all the way up, the collar does not flop.
Pocket Edge Finish
Page 12, Step 1~ finishing the slanted edge of the pockets
Instead of finishing with a serger, I chose to use bias tape.
The bias tape added stability to the pocket edge so it would not be “droopy”.
After applying the bias tape, I finished the top, short side and bottom of the pocket with my serger.
Again, I knew this would be best for my fabric. If your fabric has more structure you wouldn’t need to do this, however it does give it a very professional look.
See below if you need more details on how to do this.
Finishing slant edge of pocket with bias tapeInside of kangaroo pocketBottom of coat~ elastic hem casing finished with bias tape.Bottom hem and elastic hem of the Bass Clef
Hem Finishing
Page 23, Step 1 instructs you finish the raw of the hem with a serger, overcast stitch, bias tape or by turning under 1/4″. I finished mine with bias tape, and I feel it was just one more way to elevate this coat. It only took a few minutes extra to do this and I think it was well worth it! This method really gives you a nice clean professional look.
To Apply bias tape to the raw edge:
Open one side of the bias tape.
Align the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of the hem. Be sure you place the right side of the bias tape to the wrong side of the hem edge.
Stitch bias tape to the hem along the crease in the tape.
Fold the tape over the raw edge of the fabric to the right side
Topstitch in place.
Your raw edge will now be encased in the bias tape.
Fabrics and Notions
The Bass Clef is designed for light to medium weight woven or stable knit fabrics. Wovens such as twill, canvas, denim, wool, flannel and corduroy would all be great choices. Stable knits such a Ponte, double knits, fleece, sweatshirt fleece and cotton French Terry would also work.
If you have a knit that doesn’t have enough stretch for other garments~ this would be a perfect pattern to use it for. If choosing a lighter weight knit with more stretch, it may be best to size down.
For the tester version of the Clef, I used a fleece from my stash. I omitted the welt pocket for a quick fit test. This fleece sewed up perfectly for this pattern!
For the final version, I used a washed corduroy. This fabric is not as stiff as many corduroys so I did make a few changes as mentioned above for this fabric.
Remember the fabric you choose to use can and will change the look of your Bass Clef drastically. The best recommendation I can make is to look at all the tester versions and see what fabric they used. Sometimes this is the best way to determine how your fabric might work for a pattern.
This is the totally wearable fit test version made from fleece.
Notions
All Views: thread, 1/2 yard of 3/8″-3/4″ elastic (for sleeves)
Optional: Interfacing and bias tape
Other Notions will vary depending on what features you have chosen for your Bass Clef.
Button Option: 3/8″- 3/4″ buttons or snaps (6 for the collar version, 5 for the hooded version)
Zipper Option: 28″ separating zipper (longer zippers can be shortened)
Here are our “coordinating” Clef Coats. Both are made from fleece.
It was super cold at the lake behind our house this day, but our Clefs were snuggly!
Tips For Sewing The Bass Clef Coat
Staystitch the neckline edge (both knits and wovens)
Make a practice welt pocket before cutting into the front of your coat.
Fray check the inside edges of the welt inside. Be careful to not let it soak through to the front.
For a really quick sew, omit the welt pocket! However, let me say it really does elevate the look of your coat and the directions are awesome!
If sewing with a fabric that frays, finish all sides of the kangaroo pockets before attaching to the front. After Step 1 before moving on to Step 2.
Finish the center front edges of both front pieces before attaching the zipper.
Another way to elevate your Bass Clef is to finish the neckline/collar/hood seam with bias or twill tape. I did this on both of my versions. (You can also see I used contrasting bias tape on my 2 Clef Coats below.)
More details on the Women’s Clef Coat can be found below, along with more information on these 2 versions.CLICK HERE
Thanks for stopping by! I truly appreciate all of you that visit! If you enjoyed this blog post, consider subscribing to my blog to stay up to date with all my posts!
Mary Anne 🙂
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NOTE: These are affiliate links. It costs you nothing to purchase from these links but they do give me credit for your purchase and provide me with a small commission. This helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to continue to test and review more patterns
To receive an additional 10% off LN pattern prices, use my code 10MACSEWS. This coupon code can be used on any purchase as along as the order total is $8 or more. This means that you can no longer get my 10% off a single $6 Feature Friday pattern by itself. Since this change has been made I would truly appreciate it if you used my affiliate links above to purchase the Feature Friday patterns so that I will get “credit” for the sale. (I do receive a small commission). To take advantage of the 10% coupon code consider purchasing the 2 or all of the Clef Coat patterns while on sale!
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Fabric Resources
My husband’s wearable muslin was made from fleece I had in my stash. I’m going to guess that is from Joann Fabrics from a few years ago. My color blocked Clef Coat was made up from various scraps of fleece I found when cleaning out my sewing closet. These scraps too were most likely from Joann Fabrics.
The Washed Corduroy was purchased from Stylemaker Fabrics. It is available in a few different colors. This Bass Clef Coat is made in the “Redwood” color way. It is so soft and comfortable. I used this fabric in the “Sea Glass” color way to make an Aria button-down for myself earlier. My husband always said how much he loved this shirt every time I wore it, so I figured I would buy some for his new coat.
The Rhapsody is the $6 Feature Friday pattern at Love Notions on Friday, April 25, 2025. Be sure to use my code LOVEMARY10LN for an additional 10% off.
…A Mini Pattern Hack Blog Post
This is a mini blog post on how to create a Bishop sleeve with a ruffle cuff. For more detailed information of the Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse visit this blog post.
With the anticipation of Spring’s arrival, I am always anxious to add a few new Rhapsody Blouses to my closet. Add in new rayon challis prints available from Raspberry Creek Fabrics ~ and I am ready to get sewing.
I made a ton of cap sleeve Rhapsody Blouses last summer as my everyday tops. They were perfect for hot and humid weather, and looked so much cuter than a basic t-Shirt. When Fall came around, and we still had a few get aways planned- I decided to add a long sleeved Rhapsody to my travel wardrobe. I wanted something romantic and soft with full arm coverage. So came up with what I’m calling a Bishop Ruffle cuff sleeve! It’s a really simple hack that you could use on any long sleeve Bishop sleeve.
Hello! Welcome to my blog. I'm Mary, a retired Family & Consumer Science teacher of 32 years. I now spend my time making all my own clothes because I'm fun! I have an amazing daughter who made this blog for me.
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