………Plus~ A Pattern Review of the Pattern Emporium Spill The Tea Top
Raspberry Creek Fabrics just released their new designs on Stretch Crepe, Rayon Challis and Ponte. I have always been a HUGE fan of their rayon challis along with tons of other sewists. But, I have learned that not everyone is familiar with stretch crepe or how to sew it. SEW~ I’ve pulled together some info for my readers and visitors! I hope you find it helpful!
So let’s talk about Stretch Crepe. To begin, we’ll go over all the Pros and Con(s) of stretch crepe.
Pros
There are just soooo many!
- Doesn’t wrinkle easily, which makes it great for travel.
- Simply wash and dry! Hang up after removing from the dryer and no ironing necessary!
- Soft to touch
- Amazing drape!
- Easy to work with, making it great for beginners!
- No need for lining, even with light background colors
- Has a touch of stretch, making it comfortable to wear.
- Can be used for custom designs that are full coverage. (darker backgrounds especially)
Cons
All great things always have a few, but don’t let it sway you.
- Polyester fiber content
- Doesn’t hold a crisp press (but a product like Sally’s Best Press helps a ton!)
That’s the only con I can think of. I know that many sewists prefer to sew with natural fibers for a variety of reasons. I’ll be honest, I typically do as well. I love nothing more than rayon and linen, but this stretch crepe certainly has a place in my wardrobe.
So there you have the Pros and Cons of stretch crepe. But what is it exactly?
First off, don’t let the name fool you. It is a woven fabric, not a knit. RCF stretch crepe is 98% polyester and 2% spandex. That small amount of spandex content gives the fabric just a touch of stretch. It makes movement when wearing it just a tad easier. This small amount of spandex does NOT mean you can use it for patterns designed for just knits. FYI: Not all crepes have spandex in them.
Crepe is a woven fabric. During weaving a yarn is twisted . That twisted yarn gives the fabric surface a slight texture. This crepe texture adds dimension and interest to the fabric. Some like to refer to it as “pebbled” or “bubble” crepe. You can see this texture in the photo below
RCF stretch crepe is great for flowy dresses and pants, skirts, tops and blouses. It is a nice weight and drapes beautifully. It is heavier than RCF rayon challis. It also has more body than a rayon challis, so it creates THE best flutter and bishop sleeves. I absolutely adore a stretch crepe flutter sleeve! Stretch crepe is comfortable to wear, and can easily work for both a casual or work settings.
Tips for Working with Stretch Crepe
- Because of the polyester fiber content, it is more difficult to press. Always use a press cloth to avoid melting your fabric. Because of this, I prefer to use this crepe for flowy and softer silhouettes. I personally would avoid more tailored styles that require crisp pressed details.
- Always use a brand new needle when sewing stretch crepe.
- My first choice would be a Sharp(Microtex) needle. This needle has a very fine point which helps to prevent snags in your fabric. If you don’t have a Sharp needle, you can try a Universal needle. Make sure your needle is either 70/10 or 80/12. Always test your needle on your fabric first!
- Do not use a Ballpoint/Stretch needle~ remember this is a woven fabric. These needles have rounded tips to prevent them from making holes in knit fabrics. These needles WILL snag and damage stretch crepe. See an example of this in the photo below.
Raspberry Creek Fabrics has added 4 new designs on Stretch Crepe to the shop. (See above photo) Stretch crepe is also available for custom printing as well. Colors print vibrantly on stretch crepe, making it perfect for bright and dark colors.
You can find all of there retail prints available on Stretch Crepe HERE.
Introducing My First Pattern Emporium Spill The Tea Top
If you are a regular reader of the Sew Mary Mac blog, then you may have noticed that the past few months I have been including the (almost weekly) 50% off pattern on Fridays. Over this time, I have been “collecting” PE patterns because I am a big fan of their designs.
When I received this new stretch crepe, I know that the Spill The Tea Top was there PERFECT pattern for it!
Whenever I purchase a new pattern, I always read through the tutorial. I even used to do this with the Big 4 patterns I used to buy(hoard). I was VERY impressed with the pattern instructions and the construction techniques! My very first job (at Simplicity Pattern Co.) was as a technical writer and one of my jobs was to determine if there were any corrections or adjustments to be done to the “Primer” or instruction sheet. I also wrote educational materials and answered the questions sent into the Simplicity Magazine each month. I think PE instructions are wonderful, and I’ve noticed that there are not many “Sew Mary Mac’s Tips for Sewing” that I can add to these patterns!!!
The Details
The Spill The Tea Top combines the classic tie neck blouse with the updated popover. The bow can be worn loose or knotted for a more updated look or tied in a bow for a more feminine classic look.
- Popover Body Style with NO buttons!
- Open front neckline
- 2 Sleeve Options~ Cap or Flared long sleeve with elastic
- Tapered tie neckline in 2 lengths
- 2 Back Options~ Plain or Gathered with yoke
- Gently Flared Silhouette~ relaxed through body with no waist shaping
- Easy fit shape
- Darts provided for larger busts (2 FBA options included)
- 2 Length Options~ Regular or Long
Sizing & Fit
The Spill The Tea Top is available in sizes 4-30. This top is designed to be relaxed fitting with a gentle flared shape. It is NOT over-sized. A 2 Full-bust pattern pieces are included. (FBA-1 and FBA-2). Check the tutorial to determine which will fit you the best.
If using the FBA front pieces, remember that they add additional width to the bust and hip. The FBA-1 adds 1″ while the FBA-2 adds 2″.
Additionally, the gathered back option adds an additional 4″ in circumference to the bust and hip.
The “Top” Length is designed to hit at the hip bone, while the “Extra Long” Top is designed to hit around the crotch line. Regular and Tall lengths for both are included on the patterns. PE patterns are designed for the average woman of 5″5″.
The tutorial on page 5 gives in depth info and measurements to help you determine the correct size to make. Sleeve length and body length of the finished tops are also provided. Just about any question you may have about “What size should I make?” is answered here.
The tutorial also includes directions on how to:
- Grade between sizes
- Shorten or lengthen
- Forward shoulder adjustment, p. 52
- Moving the bust dart, p.50
- Raise the center front opening, p. 53
My Sizing & Alterations
According to my measurements I made a size 14 with the FBA-2 front piece. Although my hips are larger than the 14, I did NOT grade out for my hips. I made the gathered back/yoke version which adds 4″ to the width at the hip so there was no need to do so.
I was VERY happy with how my top fit me! I followed the sizing chart exactly and got great results the first time! For my next version, yes there will be another, I will be adding 1″ in length(just a personal preference and I will shorten the sleeve 1″.
Fabrics & Notions
The Spill The Tea Top is designed for woven fabrics with some drape. Some recommended fabrics are:
- Rayon
- Linen/rayon blends
- Georgette
- Crepe/crepe de chine
- Tencel
- Modal
- Lightweight rayon twin or poplin
Fabrics with more structure like quilting cottons, cotton poplin and chambrays are not suitable. Note: Polyester fabrics may not be beginner friendly.
I found the stretch crepe I used from Raspberry Creek Fabrics was perfect for this pattern. I’m also excited to make another version in RCF Rayon challis.
NOTIONS: 3//8″ elastic for the long sleeved flared sleeve, thread
Sew Mary Mac’s Tips For the Spill The Tea Top
As I stated earlier, almost any questions you may have about the pattern is answered in the tutorial. However, I do have a few things worth mentioning.
- Polyester~ this fabric isn’t beginner friendly for this pattern. Polyester doesn’t hold a press well so it can make the center front seam construction difficult to sew. My suggestion~ “Best Press” (a clear starch and sizing alternative). It will stiffen up the fabric and make folding in 1/4″ much easier. It washes out completely. You can find it at Wawak.
- Check out the Sleeve Mashing Chart on the PE website. It tells you which pattern have interchangeable sleeves with no alterations!
- The only major change I made to this pattern was to cut out 2 yoke pieces so that I did not have exposed gathering on the inside of the top. This is just a personal preference. I am so used to finishing pattern with a back yoke this way. (Love Notions Aria, Band Camp, Rhapsody and the Hey June Williamette). If you have either of those patterns, just follow the back yoke construction directions. If not, simply Google “Burrito Method for Yoke” and you will find several videos to help you!
A few more things worth mentioning about PE pattern tutorials. All tutorials that I have read over include:
- Pattern/fabric layouts
- Sewing Glossary
- List of pattern terms
- Tons of tester photos
- Hints & tips for selecting options and fabric
- Pattern mashing ideas
Thanks for reading this Sew Mary Mac Blog! I’m so happy you took the time to “visit” my sewing room! Every Friday (almost) I send out my “Weekly Stitch With Sew Mary Mac” to my subscribers which includes sewing world news such as pattern sales, fabrics sales along with what handmades I’ve worn that week, what I’m sewing and whatever else I feel like sharing that week. I’d love to have you join me every week! Simply hit the “Subscribe” button to do so. (On my Mac Book, if you hover in the lower right corner the subscribe box appears).
Mary Anne 🙂
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Additional Pattern Recommendations For Stretch Crepe
- Spill The Tea Top
- Lyrical Puff Sleeve Blouse
- About Town Popover
- Sweet Talker Top
- Be Mine Top
- Meet You There Dress
- Sunkissed Caftan
- Go With The Flow Dress
- Summer Breeze Dress
Use the code MARYMAC10 to receive 10% off the purchase price of Love Notions patterns.
- Fringe dress and top
- Orchid Midi dress
- Ogden Cami
- Southport dress
- Lucerne blouse
- Phoenix blouse
- Amalfi dress
- Key Largo top
sewmarymac.com 