The New Bluegrass Shirt ~With A Coastal Twist

…..A New Pattern Release From Love Notions

The Bluegrass Shirt and Dress is HERE! Are you as excited as I am?!?!?! Well, let’s get real here. The Bluegrass was intended to be a western style shirt. A Western style shirt doesn’t call your name? Well, If you follow me, then you know that I’m not a western shirt kinda girl. BUT~ this new shirt is THE perfect princess seamed shirt and as you can clearly see~ my version is casual, coastal and classic!!

When I signed up to test this new pattern from Tami (designer of Love Notions Pattern) I honestly really wasn’t that excited about it. While I do love testing patterns, this wasn’t a typical style for me. I have never worn princess seams~ most likely because I have always been fuller busted. But I have to tell you~ having a princess seamed button-down that I can actually button-down is amazing!!! I LOVE the fit I was able to get with this pattern! This pattern is definitely worth a try~ even if it take some trial and error.

The Details

The Bluegrass button-down is a timeless, tailored and classic design. Depending on the options and fabric you choose you can create a Bluegrass with a real Western flair or a perfectly classic button-down. The tailored fit of the Bluegrass makes it perfect for layering underneath jackets and sweaters!

• Shirt or dress options
• Fitted buttondown with princess seams
• Long sleeve and sleeveless options
• Optional yoke
• Straight or Curvy yoke options
• Optional pockets with flaps
• Unique pocket for dress version
• Traditional collar stand (2 piece collar)
• Use buttons or use snaps for a more western look
• Full bust option
• Skill Level: Intermediate (My opinion based on the fact that any fitted shirt may be more challenging to fit one’s unique body shape) The collar stand may be a bit tricky for some~ but the tutorial is great!

Sizing and Fit

The Bluegrass Shirt and Dress  is available in sizes XS-5X.  A Full Bust pattern piece is included (like all new and updated LN patterns). Choose your shirt size based upon your high bust measurement. If in-between sizes choose the smaller size. 

 If your full bust is more than 4″ larger than your high bust, use the included Full Bust Front pattern piece. NOTE: unlike many other LN patterns, the Full Bust pattern piece does NOT add an additional 2″ to the waist and hip finished measurements. If you relied on that extra room, you will need to grade accordingly. (See my alterations below.)

As all other Love Notions patterns, the Bluegrass is designed for a 5’5″ individual. The hem of the shirt is designed to hit below the high hip but above the full hip. The dress length is meant to hit just above the knee. You can easily shorten or lengthen the pattern by using the lengthen/shorten lines. Refer to the directions on page 7 of the tutorial.

Note: Due to the fitted design of the Bluegrass (notably the princess seams) I HIGHLY recommend making a muslin.

My Sizing Alterations and Modifications

For my version of the Bluegrass I made a 2X with the Full bust piece graded out to a 3X for my hips. This is exactly where my measurements fall on the sizing chart at the moment. My high bust is 42.5″ while my full bust is 47″. (This us a tad larger than I typically measure but because of the fitted style of the Bluegrass you must not “cheat” with your numbers~ as much as we all want to!)

Normally I always grade out one size for just my hips, but because of the princess seams I graded out to the 3X for my waist as well. I typically don’t sew or wear clothing that is as fitted as the Bluegrass, so normally I don’t have to worry about my waist. You MUST take your waist measurement into account here. I also always make the Full Bust option that adds 2″ to the waist and hips on most others patterns. You will find on some fitted pattern through the bust this added amount isn’t always feasible during drafting.

PLEASE MAKE A MUSLIN!!! Use just the front and back pieces. Stitch the princess seams and the side and shoulder seams. Assess the fit. Pay close attention to the length through the body~ make sure the waist it hitting you in the right spot.

I typically do NOT shorten my makes, even though I am only 5 feet tall. I like more coverage in my tummy area. I needed to shorten the Bluegrass at the shorten line, which is just about at the waist, in order for the princess seams to fit correctly. I shortened mine 1″ at the shorten line. I shortened the sleeve 1.5 inches which is a typical adjustment for me.

I LOVE my Bluegrass, but I do wish is was about an inch longer. On my next version (that I am sewing up right now) I shortened it 1″ at the shorten line, and then I added an inch back about 2″ from the lower edge. Because of the shaping of the princess seams, I didn’t want to add length to the bottom of the shirt, as they may have made the bottom flare out too much.

Fabrics and Notions

The Bluegrass is designed for woven fabrics. Light to medium weight apparel woven such as linen, poplin, shirtings and even Quilter’s cotton.. More specifically fabrics such as these would all work perfectly:

• Seersucker
• Chambray
• Cotton or rayon poplin
• Cotton voile
• Lightweight linens
• Madras plaid 
• Lightweight twill
• Lightweight flannel
• Quilter’s Cotton

NOTIONS

• Thread
• Interfacing
• Buttons or Snaps~between 18-23 depending on your options

Super Simple Short Sleeve Hack

The Bluegrass pattern doesn’t include a short sleeve, however you can simply shorten the long sleeve to create your own. I simply measured down 5 1/2″ down from the underarm seam, drew a line parallel to the grainline and cut! You can make yours as long as short as you like. I finished the sleeves with a 1″ hem.

I added some ribbon detail to my collar, sleeves and across the top of the of the pocket. (I swear the pocket is even~ I think the placement on the full bust makes it look off in the photos.)

Notice I added more buttons than suggested on the pattern. With a full bust, I like to start by marking a button at the fullest part of my bust, then the next button beneath it to prevent gaping.

This is 100% yard dye linen. It’s actually more of a navy color, but at this time of the day it came across much lighter.

Sew Mary Mac’s Tip for Sewing the Bluegrass

• MAKE A MUSLIN!!!!!
• When cutting long straight pieces such as the front placket, I simply measure the width and length of the pattern piece then use my rotary cutter and ruler to cut them. This is extremely helpful when cutting “shifty” fabrics.
• Before cutting out fabric that may be a tad shifty~ spray and press with Best Press (or starch)
• Be sure to transfer ALL makings on the neckline and collar pieces accurately. These are important to construct the collar and facing correctly.
• Do NOT skip the staying stitching on the curved neckline edges. I like to do this step immediately after cutting out my fabric. The more cut fabric pieces are handled, the more likely they will stretch and distort. If this happens you collar stand may not fit properly. 
• If sewing the full bust pattern pieces and your fabric is very structured, you may find it helpful to run a basting stitch on the side front piece to help ease it to fit to the center front piece. I had trouble with one of my test fit versions and a basting stitch would have helped to fit those piece together. My final version was a Quilter’s cotton and fit together without any issue.
• When sewing any type of shirt with cuffs, I prefer to construct the sleeve completely before attaching the sleeve to the garment. It is much easier to handle this way.
• For the Sleeveless version: Try your shirt on before attaching the bias tape. Check the underarm to make sure it will cover your undergarments. I often take in the side seam right at the underarm. Make any adjustments before attaching the bias tape.
• Remember that the button/buttonhole placement guide is that~ just a guide. I always try on my shirt first, and mark where I want the button at the bustline and then work up and down from that point. This helps to prevent gaping at the bust. 
  
  

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Thanks for stopping by! I truly appreciate all of you that visit!  If you enjoyed this blog post, consider subscribing to my blog to stay up to date with all my posts! 

Mary Anne 🙂

Remember to follow me over on Instagram to see all my latest makes!  @sewmarymac

You can also follow my Facebook Page~ Sew Mary Mac. On this page you will find information on my makes from all pattern companies. If I know of any good sales(pattern or fabric) I will also feature this information. I have had many of my loyal followers send me friend requests on Facebook. I do post in the Love Notions group under Mary Anne MacLean, however this Facebook account is private. There is no sewing content on that Facebook Account.

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You can buy the Bluegrass Shirt and Dress pattern HERE.

This is an affiliate links. It costs you nothing to purchase from this link, it just helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to test and review more patterns.

To receive an additional 10% off the pattern price, use this coupon code LOVEMARY10LN. To be able to use this code you must wait until Saturday, 5/10/25 to you it. (After the 40% off sale is over)This coupon code can be used at anytime on any pattern….even a $6 Feature Friday pattern.  My code does change quarterly, so please always check the newest blog post for an update if you find a code isn’t working. This code will be good through June 2025.

Fabric Resources

This pink and green “preppy” print is simply a high quality quilter’s cotton from my deep stash. I added some white rickrack to the cuffs to add a preppy look to it. This fabric is probably 15 years old!

The Kelly green “jacket” is a modified Aria button down. It is a medium weight 100% linen from Metro Textiles. They are located in the garment district of NYC. Kashi however, has an online store as well! You can see his fabrics HERE. I highly suggest following him on Instagram as well.