….A Mini Pattern Hack Blog Post
I don’t know about you~ but I’m ready to sew for Spring. I always like to add a few transitional pieces to my closet this time of year. Things I can wear now and right into the warmer weather. I tested the Lincoln Top pattern from Love Notions back in 2022. I fell in love with this pattern because of the cute button side detail and that it’s a pretty quick sew. Last year I made I made a longer version and loved it so much! So for 2024, I made another long version and changed the neckline!
Have you made a Lincoln Top yet? The Lincoln Top is just $5 today, 2/9/24. Use my code 10MARYMAC to get an additional 10% off.
Details/Modifications~ Striped Lincoln
When I saw this Cream and Navy cotton lycra double knit from Surge Fabrics, I knew it was destined to become a “Coastal Grandma” style Lincoln. This fabric is has great stability, which works perfectly for the diagonal button sides. I succeeded in getting the nautical look I was going for by adding these vintage metal anchor buttons I found on Etsy.
To create this Lincoln, I simply lengthened it by 3 inches. It’s just a matter of using the lengthen and shorten lines on the front and back pattern pieces. With patterns like the Lincoln, you can’t just add additional length to the bottom because of the unusual style lines of the sides and bottom. If a pattern includes lengthen and shorten lines, always use these to make your adjustments.
- Trace or cut out your paper pattern pieces (front and back)
- Cut along the lengthen/shorten lines
- Spread pattern the desired amount (I chose 3″, but 2″ would work nicely as well)
- Attach the top and bottom of the front(and then repeat for the back) to paper or pattern tracing cloth
- Following the angle of the side, draw a new side seam using a ruler
- Use button placement guide to adjust button placement if needed.
Construction Changes
When making this Lincoln, I did change the order of construction as follows:
Follow instructions as written for the front and back side plackets.
- Sew shoulder seams
- Attach neck binding. (I always prefer to do this before sewing my side seams)
- Sew side seams. (I simply found it easier to manipulate this without the sleeves attached)
- Attach sleeves.
- Finish by following pattern directions
Detail/Modifications ~ Navy Sweater Knit Version
This year, I decided I needed yet another longer version of the Lincoln. This time, I decided to change the neckline. I took the V-neck from the Terra Tunic and traced it onto the Lincoln.
This Ribbed Sweater Knit (from Surge Fabrics back in 2022) was in my stash and just begging to be a Lincoln top. I used the same vintage gold anchor buttons since I still had some! All of my other Lincoln tops were made in more stable fabrics (Ponte and quilted knits). This sweater knit had less structure and more drape. Because of this, I did do a few things to achieve success.
- I cut a 1″ strip of interfacing tricot knit interfacing and placed it along the hemline at the same time I attached it to the plackets. This helped to alleviate a wavy hemline.
- On Step 4, before clipping into the T marking I fused a small square of interfacing(tricot knit). My sweater knit was very stretchy and I was afraid this would pull out of shape. If your knit isn’t real stable I would suggest this step
Swapping out the necklines is much easier than you think! If you are a visual learner, search You.Tube for videos on how to do this. This is the way I do my neckline mashups.
- Trace the Terra V-neck onto pattern tracing cloth.
- Lay the V-neck pattern on top of your Lincoln front pattern piece. Be sure to align the shoulders.
- I fold the Lincoln neckline out of the way and simply tape my new V-neck in place.
- Take your Lincoln back pattern piece and redraw the neckline at the shoulder to match the new V-neck front. Use a French curve ruler to help you do this. The back neckline must be brought in closer to the neckline (remember the Lincoln neckline was a boatneck!)
If you are pear shaped like me, sizing can be a bit tricky for the Lincoln Top. Visit my detailed blog post HERE for advice on selecting your size along with some really great sewing tips. This blog post contains all the details on the two Lincoln Tops below.
Thanks for stopping by! I truly appreciate all of you that visit! If you enjoyed this blog post, consider subscribing to my blog to stay up to date with all my posts!
MaryAnne 🙂
Remember to follow me over on Instagram to see all my latest makes! @sewmarymac
You can grab the Lincoln Top pattern HERE.
This is an affiliate link. It costs you nothing to purchase from this link, it just helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to test and review more patterns.
To receive an additional 10% off the pattern price, use this coupon code 10MARYMAC. This coupon code can be used at anytime on any pattern….even a $5 Feature Friday pattern. My code does change quarterly, so please always check the newest blog post for an update if you find a code isn’t working.
Fabric Resources
The Ivory and Navy Stripe double knit (Ponte) featured, as well as the teal quilted knit are both from Surge Fabrics. Both of these fabrics were perfect for the Lincoln.
Ivory and Navy stripe cotton spandex ponte
Quilted Knit~ available in several colors
The color blocked Ivory and Navy version I made last year during testing was made from a cable double knit purchased from JoAnn Fabrics a few years ago.
What a difference your longer version makes! It’s so lovely! I think I will try that. I have the pattern, just waiting for the right fabric to catch my fancy! 😉
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I want to make another stripe version. You will love it when you make it!!
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Wonderful, CLEAR instructions/tutorial! Lovely results too. BTW, love the new hair color, very flattering!!
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Thank you so much! It’s been 8 months growing it out to this point!
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Maryann, I love the Lincoln on you. My question is what causes your buttons to make that nice, straight line, down your side VS others who have their buttons on a harsh slant? I’d like to duplicate yours.
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I am pretty sure it is because I use the full bust pattern piece. My buttons are on a slight slant- but because of the fuller front piece is probably hangs a bit differently. I also leave the 2 bottom buttons open.
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Thanks for sharing this trick. I like the Lincoln in theory but it’s too short so I’ve never made it. I also like the idea of the v-neck.
Found your blog on my Google feed but I’ve seen you for years on the LN site! ☺️
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I agree! I liked the look- but too short for me to be comfortable in. I made a longer one- then realized I’d like it better either way a v-neck! So glad you found me!!
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