The Classic Clef Coat Joins the Love Notions Line Up

A New Pattern Release Review

Love Notions is starting the new year off with a bang!!! The Clef Coat is that pattern that you didn’t know you needed. I was lucky enough to test this pattern, and believe me I am a BIG fan of this one! This pattern is so versatile depending on your fabric choice.

The Clef Coat is on release week pricing from Friday, 1/12/2024 through Thursday 1/18/2024 for just $9.50. After release it will sell for $12.50. You can use my code 10LOVEMARY for an extra 10% off.

The Details

The Clef Coat is a relaxed fit yet classic coat that can take on totally different looks depending on the options that you choose. It can be casual or dressy~ the choice is yours! And there a lot of options!

• Can be made with wovens or knits!
• Stand Collar or Hood Options
• Zipper or Button/Snap Placket Options
• Optional Welt Chest Pocket
• Front Kangaroo Pockets
• Drawstring or Elastic Waistline

Sizing and Fit

The Clef Coat is available in sizes XS -5X. As with all new and updated Love Notions pattern, it has a Full Bust Front pattern piece included.(Yay!)

Choose your size based upon your high bust measurement. If your high bust is. more than 4″ larger than your full bust, use the Full Bust Front pattern piece. It’s important to remember that the Full Bust pattern piece add an additional 2″ to the waist and hip finished garment measurements. If you are between sizes, go with the smaller size. It is always a good idea to look over the Finished Garment Measurements Chart when selecting your size. How a garment fits you if often a personal preference. Some sewists prefer a closer for tailored fit, while others might prefer a looser fit.

The Clef Coat is designed to hit above the full hip. As with all Love Notions patterns, this coat is designed for a person who is 5’5″. 

Something to remember about this pattern, is that fabric choice and really make a difference in how the coat fits you. A thicker fabric is going to fit closer than a lightweight fabric. Make sure you take that into account when choosing your size.

My Fit Alterations and Modifications

I made my Plaid flannel version in a size XL with the full bust piece since my high bust is 40″ and my full bust is 44′-45″(yes it varies). My 49″ hips actually put me between a 2X and 3X. Since the full bust front adds an additional 2″ to the hip I went ahead and graded to the 2X for the hip. 

I am only 5 feet tall, but I didn’t shortened the body length at all. This is a personal preference. I did shorten the sleeve by 2″. I typically shorten my LN sleeves about 1.5″.

For my test fit version(the olive green twill seen below) I made an XL full bust graded out to a 3X. This wound up having a tad more fullness than I wanted. Sometimes, I overestimate how much room I need for my hips. I guess it’s a problem all of us “pears” have.

The only other change I made to my Clef Coat was that I used 3/4″ elastic at the wrists instead of 3/8″.

Fabrics and Notions

The Clef Coat is designed for light to medium weight woven OR stable knit fabrics. Twill, denim, wool, canvas and flannel would all work well. For warmer months you can even make the Clef from cotton poplins, seersucker and quilting cottons. Stable knits such as Ponte, sweatshirt fleece, French Terry, and performance fleece would work as well.

Remember the fabric you choose to use can and will change the look of your Clef drastically. The best recommendation I can make is to look at all the tester versions and see what fabric they used. Sometimes this is the best way to determine how your fabric might work. Tami’s 2 versions, one flannel and one wool, are a perfect example of how different the Clef can look.

Sew Mary Mac’s Tips for Sewing the Clef Coat

• Staystitch the neckline edge (both knits and wovens)
• Make a practice welt pocket before cutting into the front of your coat. 
• Fray check the inside edges of the welt inside. Be careful to not let it soak through to the front.
• For a really quick sew, omit the welt pocket! However, let me say it really does elevate the look of your coat and the directions are awesome!
• If sewing with a fabric that frays, finish all sides of the kangaroo pockets before attaching to the front. After Step 1 before moving on to Step 2.
• Finish the center front edges of both front pieces before attaching the zipper.
• Another way to elevate your Clef is to finish the neckline/collar/hood seam with bias or twill tape. You can see that I did this on both of my versions.

Sew Mary Mac’s (not so) Secret Tips for Plaid Matching the Clef Coat

• Almost all matching takes place in the cutting phase, so allow yourself plenty of extra time AND a bit more fabric. the larger your plaid, the more fabric you may need to match it. For a smaller plaid, that could be just a half yard, but a larger plaid my require up to a yard more.
• If fabric is almost the same on the front and back, be sure to mark wrong side with tape(or whatever way you prefer).
• Cut some pieces on the bias. For the Clef you could cut the placket and kangaroo pockets on the bias if you wanted. Rather than trying to match the plaid. 
• Trace your pattern pieces on to tracing paper. This helps you see the paid underneath, making it easier to match up lines.
• Draw your seam allowance, 3/8″, on your pattern pieces. Remember that you want your seams to match at the seam line, not the cutting line. 
• ***Draw the fabric’s lines on your pattern pieces. This is what I did to get my kangaroo pockets to match up to my coat front pieces. Notice on my Clef Coat that you can barely see where my pocket are!!!
• Cut all pieces flat, or single layer. Remember to flip pattern pieces to get mirror images.
• Do not cut the back on the fold, but rather on a single layer. I often will trace my pattern piece so that I have a whole back piece instead of just one half of it.
• When sewing your pieces together, use pins instead of clips. Use more pins than you normally would. To make sure your plaid matches across the front~ baste the zipper in place first, then check to make sure your plaid matches.
• Sometimes you may have to move a piece just a smidge to get lines to match up. Don’t worry!
• If you have a walking foot~ use it!  A walking foot helps to feed the fabric into the machine evenly. This can really help your plaids stay matched up! My machine has a built in one and I always use it! 
• Practice makes perfect! The more you sew plaids the better you will get at matching them. But don’t worry aren’t perfect, no one else will probably notice. We are often our worst critic.

Above I placed the paper pocket pattern piece on top of the coat front where is would be attached. I then marked the dark blue and pink horizontal and vertical lines directly onto the paper pattern piece.

Next, I used this paper pattern piece and laid it out on my fabric, lined up my markings and cut my pocket pieces. Remember to cut mirror images of your pockets.

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Thanks for stopping by! I truly appreciate all of you that visit!  If you enjoyed this blog post, consider subscribing to my blog to stay up to date with all my posts!  

MaryAnne 🙂

Remember to follow me over on Instagram to see all my latest makes!  @sewmarymac

You can also follow my Facebook Page~ Sew Mary Mac. On this page you will find information on my makes from all pattern companies. If I know of any good sales(pattern or fabric) I will also feature this information. I have had many of my loyal followers send me friend requests on Facebook. I do post in the Love Notions group under Mary Anne MacLean, however this Facebook account is private. There is no sewing content on that Facebook Account.

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You can purchase the Clef Coat HERE.

This is an affiliate link. It costs you nothing to purchase from this link, it just helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to test and review more patterns. 

To receive an additional 10% off the pattern price, use this coupon code 10LOVEMARY. This coupon code can be used at anytime on any pattern….even a $5 Feature Friday pattern.  My code does change quarterly, so please always check the newest blog post for an update if you find a code isn’t working.

Fabric Resource

My plaid Clef Coat is made with Robert Kaufman Mammoth Flannel. It is a nice hefty flannel that is perfect for this coat. It makes a nice lightweight coat. This particular plaid is sold out, but you can find many amazing one at Raspberry Creek Fabrics.

I am currently a Love Notions Patterns Ambassador. I was given this pattern in return for testing it. As always all opinions are my own.