Make Your Own Masterpiece With The New Opus Vest

………A New Pattern Release From Love Notions

The New Opus Vest is now available at release week pricing, $9.50, today through next Monday 11/3/2025. You can get an additional 10% off my using my code 10MACSEWS. THIS is THE perfect addition to your Fall wardrobe.

The Details

I did not test the Opus Vest pattern, but as a Love Notions Ambassador I was able to get my hands on the pattern last week. I rushed over the weekend to get one sewn up for today’s release and I am so glad that I did! Talk about a satisfying sew with professional detailing! I simply love the. lining method~ it’s a little different than other techniques I’ve used~ but I really love the way it looks!

This is just the piece that I didn’t know my wardrobe needed! The Opus can be casual or business-like~ the choice is yours! I sewed up my version in a lightweight baby wale corduroy (a Designer Deadstock from LA Finch Fabrics last year). Come Spring, I am definitely sewing one up in linen!

  • Sizes XS-5X
  • Full Bust Adjustment Included
  • 2 lengths~ Cropped and High Hip
  • Fully Lined
  • Princess Seams
  • Button Front
  • Faux Welt Pockets
  • Back Buttoned Belt detailing
  • Can be worn alone or layered
  • Designed for wovens
  • Skill Level: Confident Beginners

Sizing & Fit

The Opus Vest is available in sizes XS-5X. A Full Bust pattern piece is included (like all new and updated LN patterns). Choose your vest size based upon your high bust measurement. If in-between sizes choose the smaller size. 

 If your full bust is more than 4″ larger than your high bust, use the included Full Bust Front pattern piece. Remember that if you use the full bust pattern pieces, 2″ will be added to the Finished Measurements of the waist and hip.

The Opus Vest is designed to be worn with or with out layers. If you plan on wearing it over a heavier shirt or sweater you may want to size up. The regular length version is meant to hit at the high hip on the average 5’5″ woman. The cropped version is approximately 4″ shorter.

My Fit & Modifications

For my version of the Opus Vest I made a 2X with the Full bust piece graded out to a 3X for my hips. This is exactly where my measurements fall on the sizing chart. My high bust is 42″ while my full bust is 46″. (This is a tad larger than I typically measure myself, but because of the fitted style of the Opus you must not “cheat” with your numbers~ as much as we all want to!)

Normally I always grade out one size for just my hips, but because of the princess seams I graded out to the 3X for my waist as well. I typically don’t sew or wear clothing that is as fitted as the Opus, so normally I don’t have to worry about my waist. You MUST take your waist measurement into account here.

When grading out for my waist and hips~ I only graded out on the side seams. I graded on the princess seams on my muslin~ and I found that I had a little “flair” at that spot and it wouldn’t lay flat. I removed that excess on my muslin and then it was fine.

It is also a good idea to check the Finished Measurements Chart so you can see exactly how much ease is included. Remember that wearing ease is important and just because those measurements are larger than the Body Measurements, it doesn’t mean you can use them to choose your size. Wearing ease in needed so you can actually move in your finished garment.

PLEASE MAKE A MUSLIN!!! Use just the front and back pieces. Stitch the princess seams and the side and shoulder seams. Assess the fit. Pay close attention to the length through the body~ make sure the waist it hitting you in the right spot. I am only 5 feet tall, however I am not short waisted, so the waist fit me in the correct spot. I am shorter from my waist to my full hip, which is why the vest may appear longer on me than on other testers. I can not stress this enough~ MAKE THE MUSLIN! I used a piece of quilting cotton from my deep stash.

After making my muslin~ I also determined that I had some excess fabric under the arm. This is something that I always wind up getting on any sleeveless garment. I know that from sewing my own clothes for so long, that I often have to take sleeveless garments in just under the arm. This is very common for those with a fuller bust. Patterns can’t always account for our bust size and position. I correct this by taking in the underarm at the side seam. I do that on the Side Front and Side Back pattern pieces. The photo below shows the alteration I’ve made to the pattern in green. Again~ a perfect example of why a muslin is important. You wouldn’t want to realize this AFTER you have already sewn your vest together lining and all!

I found the back belt to be a tad long for the larger sizes. I wound up cutting off 1″ length off of each one. Be sure to check this BEFORE you attach the belt to the center back piece. If will pretty involved to shorten this later on.

Fabrics & Notions

The Opus Vest is designed for light to medium weight wovens. Fabrics such as linen, chambray, poplin and broadcloth are recommended in the pattern. I feel that some other lightweight fabrics that would work nicely as well would be: corduroy, wool blends, wool suiting , flannel and even denim. Fabrics that have a bit more structure and not too much drape would look best. For Fall and Winter I think the Robert Kaufmann Mammoth Flannels would be perfect for the Opus. Although the pattern is designed for wovens, I think a stable knit would work as well, as long as it wasn’t too bulky. Any fabric, woven or stable knit if too bulky wouldn’t allow the points in the front to have a crisp appearance.

Make sure to scroll to the bottom to my Fabric Resources section! I’ve already added a linen version to my Spring Sewing Plans for 2026!

I highly recommend taking a look at all the tester versions paying close attention to the fabrics they have used to get a better idea how the fabric you choose may work. Remember different fabrics can create garments that look very different.

A silky fabric is recommended for the lining of the Opus. I purchased an inexpensive polyester satin from Hobby Lobby for my version. I typically like to order Bemberg rayon for lining my me mades. See the “Fabric Resources” section below.

NOTIONS

  • Thread
  • 4 or 5 1/2″ buttons (one button is for the back belt)
  • Interfacing

Sew Mary Mac’s Tips For Sewing The Opus

  • Be sure to mark ALL notches and lines. You’ll be happy you did later!
  • Be sure to mark the welt pocket placement
    • These are the + signs you see on the center front and side front pieces
  • If your fabric has a bit more drape, consider interfacing the entire front pieces with a lightweight tricot interfacing (see link below)
  • If sewing the full bust pattern pieces and your fabric is very structured, you may find it helpful to run a basting stitch on the side front piece to help ease it to fit to the center front piece. I had trouble with one of my test fit versions and a basting stitch would have helped to fit those piece together. 
  • PRESS, PRESS, PRESS!
    • PRESSING IS IMPORTANT! Pressing makes a difference!
      • Helps you create “Handmade” professional looking garments instead of “handmade” ones.
  • Press all princess seams open, front and back
    • I highly recommend using a Tailor’s Ham for this (especially for the Full Bust option)
    • Don’t have one? Add it to your Holiday Wish List ~ see below for links
Tailor’s Ham
Pressing a Princess Seam with
the Tailor’s Ham
Page 11, Step 6. Pressing seams flat first on sleeve board
  • Page 11, Step 6~Press seams flat first, then press lining to the inside. Pressing flat first gives you a much cleaner and sharper edge.
Page 12, Step 7
Page 12, Step 7
Page 12, Step 8
  • Page 12, Step 7~ Attaching the finished front pieces to the main back (RST). Remember the fronts already have the 3/8″ seams seam along the neckline, armscye and bottom. The back will be larger. See 2 photos above.
  • Page 12, Step 8~ Layer the back lining on top of the main back and front pieces. See above photo.
    • The Right side of Back Lining will be against the Wrong side of the Front pieces.

Thanks for stopping by! I truly appreciate all of you that visit!  If you enjoyed this blog post, consider subscribing to my blog to stay up to date with all my posts!

Mary Anne 🙂

Remember to follow me over on Instagram to see all my latest makes!  @sewmarymac

You can also follow my Facebook Page~ Sew Mary Mac. On this page you will find information on my makes from all pattern companies. If I know of any good sales(pattern or fabric) I will also feature this information. I have had many of my loyal followers send me friend requests on Facebook. I do post in the Love Notions group under Mary Anne MacLean, however this Facebook account is private. There is no sewing content on that Facebook Account.

You can grab the Opus Vest pattern here.

This is an affiliate link. It costs you nothing to purchase from this link, it just helps fund my fabric addiction which allows me to test and review more patterns.

To receive an additional 10% off the pattern price, use this coupon code 10MACSEWS. This coupon code can be used at anytime on any pattern….even a $6 Feature Friday pattern. My code does change quarterly, so please always check the newest blog post for an update if you find a code isn’t working.

I am currently a Love Notions Ambassador. I did not test this pattern, but I was given an advance copy of the Opus Vest before it released. As always, thoughts and opinions are my own.

Fabric & Notions Resources

When giving fabric resources to my readers, I try to only include those that I have personally shopped at along with those that I know that my fellow LN Ambassadors and sewing creators have used. This doesn’t mean that other shops aren’t good to shop at. Online shopping for fabric isn’t always easy and many of my readers aren’t comfortable with it (yet).

Lining Fabrics

Pongee~ a polyester fabric that is another great lining choice. It has a smooth surface and soft drape.

Cali Fabrics has about 40+ colors of Designer Deadstock Pongee lining for $3.99 per yard. You can find them HERE.

Charmeuse Satin~ is a slightly heavier lining fabric that is great for vest and coats. Cali Fabrics has 40+ colors available at $3.99 per yard. You can see them HERE.

  • Note about Cali Fabrics. This is a family run store. Ron who makes videos of the new fabrics each week is very knowledgeable about fabric. I would recommend them for any type of fabric you are looking for.

I was able to grab some polyester satin fabric at Hobby Lobby for $6.99 (30% off). They have it in 12+ colors. I was really happy with this lining fabric, and in the future I would have no problem with using it again.

My go to fabric for lining is Bemberg that I purchase from the NYC garment district or a local sewing center (Stitch N Sew) but I didn’t have time to get any for this project. Although my local shop is only one town over~ it is not easily accessible as they are not open or Friday and Saturday.

What exactly is Bemberg? Bemberg lining is a high-quality, breathable, and anti-static fabric made from cotton linter, a byproduct of cotton production. It has a silky feel and is used as a luxurious lining in high-end garments like suits, jackets, and dresses because it is comfortable, durable, and drapes well.  Bemberg is generally very durable. It’s resistant to tears and rips. While some very high-end suit manufacturers and consumers have long championed silk as the ultimate lining, it isn’t nearly as strong or long-lasting as Bemberg. Bemberg is also more comfortable and less expensive than silk.

WHERE TO BUY BEMBERG?

Vest Fabrics

FLANNEL

My favorite flannel is Robert Kaufman Mammoth Flannel which is one the thickest and best quality flannels I have ever worked with. They can be found in many online shops (and even quilt shops). Simply search in your favorite online shop. They can also be found in the following shops.

Style Maker Fabrics also carries a “Cozy Flannel” which is very similar to Mammoth Flannel. I have sewn this flannel up as well and it just gets softer and softer with each wash. They have many plaids AND prints available. You can find them HERE.

WOOL & WOOL SUITING

Light to Medium weight wool/wool blend suitings would sew up beautifully for an Opus Vest. A very classic look that could be both casual styled with jeans, or work appropriate with trousers (think LN Bridget Trousers) or a skirt ( LN Encore Skirt). When shopping for wools, the keyword to look for would be “suiting”. My top shop for this would absolutely be Cali Fabrics! For the price and quality you can’t beat this shop!

Cali Fabrics~ They have a huge selection of wool suitings, many being designer deadstocks from NYC. There are many to choose from and they would all make gorgeous Opus Vests. Check them out HERE.

Style Maker Fabrics~ also has a nice selection of Suiting fabrics. Some are rather expensive, but there are some that are very reasonable. This is one shop you never need to worry about what you will get in the mail! You can see them HERE.

CORDUROY

Different corduroys will result in different looks. I used a soft lightweight baby wale corduroy ( a designer deadstock from LA Finch Fabrics) for my version. LN Ambassador Chloe used a midweight corduroy for her version. A lot of corduroy I’m finding in the online shops are “stretch corduroy”. This may work for the Opus, but I think I would prefer a regular cotton corduroy for this project. You can find some at the following shops.

Cali Fabrics~ has a nice selection of corduroy (at great prices), from 21 wale to 8 wale in a variety of colors.

Style Maker Fabrics~ has a large selection of corduroy. Their Japanese Printed Corduroys are to die for! They are totally worth the price! Last week I sewed up the LN Aria in one and I’m in love with it!

Yard Blox~ I have NOT ordered from this company (yet)~ but I am very interested in their “Elephant” Corduroy that has a very wide wale. I’ll keep you posted if I wind up ordering from them

LINENS

A midweight linen would work really well for the Opus Vest. I’m considering a lightweight linen version for Spring for a more relaxed look. I do buy most of my linen in NYC from GrayLines Linen. They also sell online. I also purchase linen from Fabrics-Store.com. These 2 shops are my favorites for solid 100% linen.

Graylines Linen

Fabrics-Store

Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen is a nice rayon/linen blend with a some drape~ I’m thinking this would be perfect for a spring-time Opus. You can find it at several reputable online shops such as:

Cali Fabrics~ has a nice selection of linens, both solids and stripes/plaids. Many of these are designer headstocks.

Tricot Knit Interfacing

The product I have always used is Pellon Easy Knit Tricot EK130. Just before Joann Fabrics went into liquidation, I bought 2 entire bolts for 70% off. I still have an entire bolt left. Where I will buy it in the future, I haven’t decided. Upon “googling” it I see that many online retailers sell it~ including Amazon.

Cali Fabrics is one of my go-to online shops and they carry it HERE.

Surge Fabrics also carries it in black and white. You can find that HERE.

Wawak~ is an excellent source for sewing and tailoring needs. They have been around since 1907. I now order all my Gutermann Thread from them. I have not purchased their Tricot Interfacing yet~ but I know that several Love Notions Ambassadors use this tricot. The prices are good and shipping is fast!

They also sell rolls of 1″ wide Tricot interfacing, seen HERE.

Pressing Tools

You can find excellent pressing tools at Wawak such as a Pressing Ham/Tailor’s Hams, Sleeve Rolls and Sleeve Boards. Pressing is NOT something to skip! Pressing really can make a big difference in how your finished garment looks! Consider investing in one or all of these pressing tools if you don’t own them. (They also make great items to add to your Holiday Wish List!)

Tailor’s Ham

Sleeve Roll

Sleeve Board

Stash VT*

Last year I put this sleeve board on my Holiday Wish List~ and yippee my husband bought it for me. It was 200X better than the vintage one I was using that was so wobbly. I can vouch 100% for this product.

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